Exploring Valparaiso

After our experience in Santiago, we decided to stick to Tour 4 Tips in Valparaiso as well to explore the city. They have 2 tours – Valparaiso Offbeat at 10am and Valparaiso Highlights at 3pm. Both start from Plaza Sotomayor, a central square in the city which can be easily reached by taking a local bus from the main bus terminal.  We had time for only one, so opted for the Offbeat tour, which covers Downtown areas and offers you a glimpse of murals.

At 10am you will find the Guides waiting at the Square dressed bright Red-White striped shirts – who refer themselves as Wally’s – Like Where’s Wally. Once its 10am, groups are formed and after short introductions they take you for Walking tour of Valparaiso. They are friendly, informative and will immerse you in history without boring you (Well, except when they start discussing Pinochet & Allende).

Valparaíso is very famous for its Murals and Graffiti. While Mural is considered an Art form done with permission, Graffiti is vandalism. The guides take you through neighbourhoods having both. A few snapshots from the tour below.

You also get to ride two major forms of transport – the old Trolleybus and the City Bus – with the Guides and group. The Tour finishes at their office, located in an old classic Apartment . You get to taste Jote – Wine+Coke drink – as you conclude the tour The tour is offered for free and if you like their services, you can tip them at the end. They neither force you or emotionally appeal to you to get the tip! You also get to ask any questions regarding the city and get free maps and directions.

Exploring the City on our own

Post a quick lunch at an Asian Restaurant – Tokyo House – we went about exploring the city on our own. There were two items on our list. First, to ride the Historic funiculars and then enjoy the famed colourful houses in the Historic Quarter.

First was the Funicular. The Guide told us beautiful one was located near the main square – Concepción. In operation since 1833, this is a small ride for 300CLP one way.

Riding the funicular brings you to Cerro Concepción, a hill overlooking the bay and Historic Quarter of Valparaiso. From here you can get a panoramic view of the city and the colourful houses of Valparaiso.

After that we decided to head back to our Hotel. Took the local bus to the Terminal and an intercity bus back to Pajeritos.

Getting to Valparaíso

Valparaíso is primarily by Bus or Car. Easiest way is to take a Bus from Pajaritos Bus Terminal in Santiago. There is no need to book in advance, you can show up 1 hour before the trip and buy a ticket from the Counter. There are many Private companies running their services on an hourly basis. The Buses are air-conditioned and have reclining seats.

Getting around Valparaíso

Valparaiso is a small city and has a good public transport system. You can use the cheap Tolleybus or Buses which follow circular routes to Navigate the City. To move uptown-downtown you can use the historic ascensores or funiculars.

Our must see destination!

Located on Easter island (Or Rapa Nui) are more than 800 Stone monolithic figures, called Moai. While Archaeologists and Historians have come up with many theories, they not yet know exactly why or how they were made! The most ‘out-of-the-word’ explanation is that they were made under the influence of Extra-Terrestrials – which Rahul likes to believe. He has been wanting to visit the Island ever since watching the old Jonny Quest Episode and then learning more about the same in multiple Documentaries. So when we planned our trip to South America, it became a must see destination.

Story Behind the Moai

So, who are the Moai ? In short, they are believed to be representations of Chieftains of the Native Tribes on the Island. They were erected when a Chief died. Each Tribe had a Ceremonial Platform, called the Ahu on which the Moai where raised. The more Richer and Powerful the Tribe, larger and bigger were the Ahus and Moais they built.

The First Moais resembled stone blocks. As time progressed, Moai building technology also advanced and more intricate and lifelike designs were made. You can see evolution of the Moai in the following picture (From Right to Left)

The latest ‘design’ had eyes, made of Coral Stones. They also had a ‘Top Knot’ meant to represent the hairdo of the Chieftain. The following is a reconstruction of a Moai.

The largest Ahu can be found in Ahu Tongarikki – There are 15 of them, located against a great backdrop of the Pacific Ocean and the Island Coast.

Most of the Ahus are located on the coast, with Moais facing towards the centre of the Island. This is so as the elders can shower blessings on the Islanders living there and their Farms for good produce. However, there is one Ahu, situated inland. Here the Moai face towards the sea. Any guesses why ? The Tribe that built it where Fishing Tribe. They live near the coast and work in the sea – so directions are reversed!

Decline of the Moai

The First European ship arrived in 1722. The Islanders were astonished by the fair, clothed folks with advanced technology. Disillusioned and disappointed with their beliefs, they toppled the Moais. When James Cook arrived in 1774, many Moais were in toppled state – many remain in that state still.

We still didn’t say how they were built or transported right ? That’s the biggest mystery. We know where they were built though – in the quarry at extinct Volcano of Rano Raraku. The Artisans made base models and were customised to suit needs of the Tribe that came shopping You can still see many incomplete Moais lying there – even a huge 22 foot one!

Large Moai – Under Construction when the ‘factory’ shut

Rise of the Birdman cult

Many years after the Moai phase elapsed, the Birdman Competition rose to popularity. An annual contest, where specially trained athletes representing each tribe would compete in a life or death contest to get the egg of the Manu Tara bird from the small Island Motu Nui off the coast, braving the sharp cliffs and rough sea.

Other Points of Interest

Apart from the Moais, Ahus and Birdman related places, Easter Island has beautiful landscape. If you have time, you can visit Anakena Beach for a refreshing swim!

Useful Travel Information

Getting there

In spite of its remoteness, Easter Island is a popular Tourist destination and has an Airport with daily flights to Santiago in Chile. There is also a weekly flight to Tahiti – the only International connection. We flew in from Santiago on the daily LATAM flight. Tickets are on the expensive side and flights are full, so do book in advance.

Getting around

You don’t need more than 3 days on the island. It will take 2 days to cover all the main attractions and is best to join an organised group tour. On the third day, you can rent a car and explore the island on your own. We were crunched on time, so stuck to the 2 day itinerary and explored the Island with Tours A  & B from Easter Island Travel. You can read our review here.

Accommodation & Food

Being so remote, cost of living is on the higher side on the Island. We stayed in a B&B 10 minutes away from the town centre (Read review here). There are restaurants in town where you can order a meal or Super-markets from where you can buy stuff and cook at your place.

1. Ride the Funicular to San Cristóbal Hill

San Cristóbal Hill or Cerro San Cristóbal is the highest point in the city located within the Santiago Metropolitan Park. To get to the top we suggest you ride the Funicular uphill. The queue gets longer as the day progresses, so it is suggested to tick this off first. The ride is a short one and has only one stop en-route – Santiago Zoo. As you rise up, you get to see the view of Santiago city revealing in front of you. Once you reach the top, you can buy some thing to much from the many vendors and check out the 360º view of the city. At the summit of the hill is the statue of Virgin Mary.

2. Take a Walking Tour

Tour 4 Tips is a great agency offering guided walking tour of the city. The tour is Pay-what-you-like, as in if you like their services, you can tip them at the end. We took the Santiago Highlights Tour which covers the Historic Centre of Santiago. The Tour starts outside Bellas Artes Museum at 3pm. You can spot the Guides wearing White & Red striped shirts (like Wally in Find Wally) waiting at the spot – just walk up and introduce yourself. Once it’s time, they’ll organise into English and Spanish speaking groups and start the Tour.

The Tour lasts approximate 3 hours and you get to see different areas of Santiago – The Hip Lastarria neighbourhood, La Moneda Palace and the Heart of the City – Plaza de Armas.

That’s about it  We really wish we could have spent more time here, taking in the culture, cuisine and interacting with local people, but may be next time. We just got a glimpse of it and barely scratched the surface. Being the capital of the most prosperous country in Latin America, Santiago is well connected by Air, Land and Sea. Accommodation is easy to find, however we stayed in the Airport Transit Hotel to save multiple transfers, as we had 4 flights in/out combined.

Journey to San Pedro de Atacama : Crossing the Bolivia-Chile land border

So, on the third and final day of our Salar de Uyuni Tour (Read here), our Driver/Guide dropped us at the Bolivia-Chile border high up in the Altiplano. After stamping our passports at the Bolivian Border post, we boarded the mini-van which was supposed to take us to San Pedro de Atacama (SPdA for short), the nearest Chilean town and main gateway to the Atacama Region. The drive is a slow descent, from 4500m+ to 2600m! Not only does the landscape change, but also the infrastructure! Chile is one of the most developed countries in South America, while Bolivia is one of the poorest.

The mini-van took us to the Chilean Border post, at the entrance to the town of SPdA. The officials were happy to see the pre-issued visa and filled forms and stamped the passport without any delay. The baggage had to be unloaded from the van and screened. It is advised not to carry any Food or Organic material from Bolivia to Chile. Post that the driver dropped each tourist to their respective Hostels in the town

San Pedro de Atacama – Desert Tourist town in the foothills of Andes

The small tourist town has a desert theme, most buildings and establishments have a shade of brown or yellow! Tourism is the major livelihood and there are many restaurants, hostels, tour operators and souvenir shops, all catering to the passing tourists – meaning higher prices everywhere!

We stayed in Hostal Desert, a small cozy Bed & Breakfast, 10~15mins walk from Centro or the town centre.

Major Attractions

There are Four major attractions – Geyser field, Moon Valley, Altiplanic Lakes and Green lake, each of which can be visited as part of half day guided tour – requiring 2 Full days to complete. There are other places of interest, but not worth exploring unless you intend to stay longer. We visited only the first two (described in detail below), as the last two were similar to the sights we saw during our Salt Flat tour.

Tatio Geysers field and Town of Machuca

This is the most spectacular attraction and must see if you are here. World’s third largest active geyser field with more than 80 geysers! They become super active when the sunrises, venting out steam and bubbling gases. To see this sight, you have to start very early – at 5am – braving sub-zero temperatures. But it’s totally worth it!We opted for the Tour Agency  Turismo Grado 10. They are slightly expensive, for a valid reason. They have a unique Mercedes Truck-Bus for transportation, which also doubles as a mobile kitchen. So when other Agencies give you cold breakfast boxes, here you get a freshly cooked hot breakfast! Also, they give blankets to keep yourself warm!

Once the sun is up and shining, the steam vents die down and people head over for a dip in the hot springs on site. The water is not ‘hot’ as we know it. It is just warmer than the surrounding temperature. We didn’t brave to go anywhere near as it was still freezing for us.

On the way back, we stopped at a Machuca village. It is a small settlement of Atacama people, who have inhabited this region from historic times.

Here I finally got a chance to taste Alpaca meat! Swati couldn’t bear the thought of eating cute Alpacas so she decided to stay inside the bus!

On our way back we made couple of more photo stops.

This is another must do tour in SPdA. The arid nature of the region has provided it the features of an Alien landscape, most comparable to surface of the Moon. Located 30 minutes outside the town, both this region is located in the Los Flamencos National Reserve. The trip is again best taken as part of an organised group tour in an evening.

First part of the tour consists of crawling through caves. These are covered in salt deposites. Looks like mud, but it is solid rock. Our group consisted of 20 odd people. Best is to either be in the front, or better be at the back. This helps in capturing some good photographs. Otherwise there would be people in front and back. Also try to arrive before the tourist groups come in truckloads, then it gets really cramped!

After emerging from the cave, we board the van for a short drive to see sand dunes. After a short walk and climb on a sand hill, you get to a vantage point from which you can appreciate the desert landscape!

Penultimate stop on the tour were some rock formations that formed as a result of wind erosion. These were termed the Three Marys, but one tourist broke a figure while posing. Since then people are not allowed near them.

Last stop was the most scenic – the panoramic view of the Moon Valley, with Andes in the background. Here you wait and see the sun set. The most interesting phenomenon is when the sun goes below the horizon. You’ll see that the Andes mountain range change colour from brown to pink!

With that, our time at San Pedro de Atacama came to an end. We opted for a transfer to the nearest airport – Calama – and took the evening flight to Santiago de Chile.

The Altiplano region is a high plateau in the Andes mountain range, semi-arid to arid, stretching across Peru, Bolivia and Chile. Our first stop for the day was unplanned as the other 4×4 suffered a puncture.

We moved on without much delay and stopped at a beautiful valley where Llamas were grazing.

After close encounter with the Llamas, we moved on. Around lunch time, we arrived at this vast plain with thousands of boulders surrounded by mountains. All the mountains were ancient extinct volcanoes, and the boulders cooled down mega-eruption. After solidification, they were sculpted to strange shapes by wind and sand.

After the tasty picnic lunch in the middle of the boulder field, we started our ascent. The vegetation disappeared, air became colder, drier and thinner! Soon we came across the first Altiplano lake – a mineral rich salt lake inhabited by flock of flamingoes. We couldn’t believe the birds could survive in this harsh climate!

There major species of Flamingos found here are Andean Flamingos and James’s Flamingos. They get their distinct pink colour from eating the algae in the lake.

We made our next stop at Árbol de Piedra or stone tree. An isolated stone formation in the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve. Again, this rock formation is a result of constant erosion over the centuries by strong winds that also carries sand particles.

The last stop was the most dramatic for the day – Laguna Colorada or the Red Lagoon! As the name suggests, the lake here is Red in colour, with white borax islands. The red colour is due to red pigments and algae that feed on them.

The last stop for the day was an active geothermal field at 4900m! The temperature by this time had dropped to 5ºC. The area had distinct sulphur smell with fumes rising steadily into the air.

After this we continued our journey to the small lodge in the middle of nowhere! While the last night’s place had steady electricity and running water throughout the night, this one had it only till 10.30pm. We had read online that it is best to freshen up at night when water is running, as the toilets would be unbearable next morning – and it was true! There was a ‘hot spring’ near by, to which our fellow travellers eagerly rushed to for a dip. By hot they meant 15ºC! Our priority was to just survive the night! Fortunately, the thick blankets provided helped us scrape through the night as the mercury hit sub-zero!

The last day of the tour consisted of just two stops. First was Desierto de Dalí or Salvador Dalí Desert. It is a barren landscape with rock formations that resemble Dalí’s art.

The final stop was yet another beautiful lagoon – Laguna Verde or Green Lagoon. A stunning green salt lake, at the foot of the extinct Volcano Licancabur.

On the other side of Licancabur Volcano above lay Chile. As we had opted for drop at San Pedro de Atacama, we said bye to our fellow travellers and alighted at the Bolivian border post. The last 3 days gave us an adventure of a lifetime, and we highly recommend you to take this tour if ever in Bolivia/Chile! But this trips requires some preparation – read this article for our tips.

The Salt Flats begin on the outskirts of the small town of Uyuni in Bolivia. The major highlights can be covered in a one day tour. But there are combo packages which take you deeper and higher into the Altiplano region. We opted for the 3 Day/2 Night Tour and went ahead with Red Planet Expedition – one of the most highly recommended tour operators. In this post I’ll try to share the first day’s experience – which is more about exploring the Salt Flats.

Getting to Uyuni

To explore the Salt Flats, first you have to reach Uyuni. To get there, you need to either take a morning flight from La Paz or an overnight bus. We took the bus (Todo Turismo).  Either way, you reach the town in the morning, just in time to freshen up and start the tour on the same day – around 10.30am. The town is very small, but has establishment that cater to basic needs – Supermarket, Restaurants, Hostels, Money Exchange etc. We arrived at 7am, took a cab for few Bolivars to the office of our Tour Operator – Red Planet Expedition. We freshened up, made the payment for the tour, had breakfast and bought essential supplies from the town (Like Drinking Water, Snacks etc). By that time, the 4×4 was prepped and ready to go!

First stop – Train Cemetery

This region is very rich in minerals and is an important source of revenue for Bolivia. Railway lines were laid in the past to transport these minerals across the border to Chile to ship it out. Train Locomotives were brought from Britain. But the routes didn’t operate long and were abandoned eventually. All the locomotives were dumped in what is now popularly termed as Train Cemetery or Graveyard. This is the starting point for all Salt Flat tours.

Onwards to the Salt Factory

Last stop before venturing out into the Salt flats was a local market for lunch, refreshments and some souvenir shopping. Here they showed us how Salt is mined locally- yes, for consumption – in small scale. Salt is made into bricks in the field, transported to the factory, powdered and purified.

Finally…We reach the Salt Flats!

Yes! It begins here. As our 4×4 crossed the market, the landscape began to change. From brown the colour kept fading till it became pure white! We have entered Salar de Uyuni!

Perspective Photographs

If you Google Salar de Uyuni, there are high chances that you will come across many strange photographs that appear unreal. Since the land is absolutely flat & white, and horizon is empty due to vastness, here you can take amazing trick photographs!

Rahul researched in advance, learned the science behind it, even had some props ready. But it is not that easy. It is difficult to take these photos with a DSLR, Mobile Camera works best. And to get the shot right, you need some coaching (from the very able driver/guide) and some practice! Trust him with your Mobile phone and he will create magic!!!

Fish Island or Isla Incahuasi

After having had fun with Perspective photography, we continued the drive through the salt flats to reach Isla Incahuasi, otherwise popularly known as Fish Island! When the prehistoric lake existed this was an Island, now a hill. In an hours time you can climb to the summit for stunning panoramic views! The Island has Giant cacti that can reach up to a height of 10m! Their wood can be used to make furniture!

If you look closely at the rocks/soil on the island, you’ll observe they are of coral origins. Yes, this was a coral island long long time ago, now they are fossilised!

Sunset

Sunset on the salt flats is a surreal experience. From bright white the landscape fades away as the sun disappears below the horizon.

If you have opted for the Day Tours, usually you head back to Uyuni. But we had 2 more days of exploring the Altiplano region beyond, so we continued to our night camp.

Staying in a Salt Hotel

I have heard of ice hotels in Scandinavia, but a salt hotel ? Yes, we spent the night in a hotel made of salt bricks! The ground was rock salt, while bed and walls were made of salt bricks. Since we were a couple, we got a whole room with attached bathroom for ourselves. Everything was gas powered here. I wanted to take a bath and there was not hot water (although they mentioned it would be available). Then Rahul went and said something in Spanish and finally after some time got Hot water. But it was a bad decision to take a bath! As soon as I got out I started freezing. However, it didn’t last long and we had a good night sleep!

Tiwanaku is 2 hours outside of La Paz and best visited as a day trip from there with a knowledgable guide. The visit starts in the Museum (where no photos are allowed) and continues on to the Archaeological site.

Next is the Kalasasaya Mound, surrounded by huge stone wall on all sides.

On top of the mound are two notable structures. First, and the most famous – The Sun Gate. It is made from single stone, with intricate carvings. In an attempt to move it last century, it broke in half. But still, a very impressive structure. It is said that this gateway was once adorned with gold. The holes had golden statues inlaid.

The most interesting section is the top.  A closer look reveals that there are three rows, one for each world in Tiwanaku Mythology – Condor for Heavens or Sky, Puma for Earth and Snake for underworld. At the centre is the Creator diety – Viracocha, isolated from all three worlds by a barrier. Those who believe in Ancient Aliens believe that Viracocha was one of them.

Near the Sun gate is the second interesting structure – a 7 foot tall idol. Notice the fingers – something unusual about them right ?

Outside the mound you find a strange subterranean or sunk temple. Symbolic of the underworld, this sunken pit is surrounded by stone walls with hundreds of faces jutting out.

Each face is unique. The design evolved over the centuries. Some of them doesn’t look human!

Around this area there are more ancient sites, but spark the interest of Archaeologists rather than tourists as they are either not excavated or unrestored.

Post our visit we enjoyed lunch at a nearby restaurant and returned to La Paz.

Enjoy the City View from Mirador Killi Killi

This is a small Park outside the city, on top of a hill with Free Entrance and a vantage point to observe the city skyline.

La Paz – Capital of Bolivia, View from Mirador Killi Killi

Visit the Witches’ Market

This is an eerie place. A dilapidated street, with stores selling all sorts of voodoo stuff with witch doctors on streets. People visit them seeking solutions to common problems in life – birth of a baby, getting a good alliance, securing a job, procuring wealth etc. The witch doctors listen to their requests, ask them to buy a list of offerings, which are readily available in the stores. Then they do a ritual and burn the offerings on the road. The offerings could be as simple as fruits, books, wood and as scary as dried baby llamas! More expensive and exquisite the offering, more effective the ritual! Also, the service list also includes bringing harm and ill to your enemies!

Colonial buildings at Calle Jean

Calle Jean is a small street in La Paz which has few well preserved colonial buildings. Most of them are now either Art shops or Museums.

Take the Cable Car ‘Teleferico”

La Paz is on a slightly lower altitude than the immediate neighbouring city of El Alto. Unlike western countries, where a higher area is prime property, here the property in lower areas are more valued. This is because the higher grounds doesn’t still get running water or electricity all year round. So most of the working population stay in El Alto and come down to La Paz to work. The biggest problem was time needed for commute. Going up and down through winding roads in a bus was not practical. So the government constructed the first cable car public transit. Usually you see cable cars at tourist spots. Here it is part of daily life. A ride from El Alto to La Paz is a great experience !

Umpteen varieties of Potato in Robert Rodriguez Food Market

The Food market in La Paz has striking resemblance to the ones you find in India. Vendors with produce in the open, mostly stacked in sacks. But the surprise here is the number of different types of Potatoes you can find. They come in all sorts of sizes and shapes!

Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit areas in historic central square as there was a protest going on. Police had blocked all traffic and pedestrian access to the area. It was not safe as well.

Crossing Peru-Bolivia International border by land

Our first stop was border town of Yunguyo. Here we alighted from the bus and carried our belongings to the Peruvian Immigration office (See Control de Migratario office below). Unfortunately there was no power and we had to wait for a while before we could finish our exit formalities. So we exchanged our Peruvian Soles and US Dollars for few Bolivars at the Exchange nearby. Once we got the seal on our Passport, we grabbed our luggage and walked towards the border (the Arch you can see in the distance). Pushing and Pulling heavy luggage at this altitude is no easy task mind you! Both of us were panting vigorously by the time we reached the gate.

Once we crossed the arch, we were received by the Bolivia Hop guide and escorted to the Bolivian Immigration counter. It is possible to get a Visa on Arrival for Indian citizens here. However we had managed to get a free Tourist visa from the consulate back home, so the process was same as in any other airport – Fill the Entry form, submit the same with Passport and get the stamp.

Once everyone in the group got their Passports stamped, we boarded the bus on Bolivian side. Now this bus was a different one than the one in Peru side, as vehicles cannot cross here. Slightly lesser in terms of comfort. In an hour or so we reached Copacabana, a small town on the shores of Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side. We had arranged a Tour to Isla del Sol, one of the Islands on Lake Titicaca. First we had our lunch at a restaurant overlooking the lake and then set off to Isla del Sol.

Visit to Isla del Sol

We boarded the boat at 2pm for Isla del Sol. We cruised through at a steady pace and reached the island in 30-40 minutes.

We got down at this small jetty on the southern side of the island.

The water was very clear near the shore, and dark blue from a distance. Although it looks tempting for a swim, water here was cold <10°C!

The boatman gave us 1 hr on the Island. We had to walk across the whole island, through the pathway to Yumani village on the northern side where he planned to pick us up at 4pm, for the journey back. At slowest pace he said we wont require more than 45 mins, including time for photo stops. But what we didn’t factor is that the lake is at an altitude of 3800m and the island is at a higher level than the same which meant some climbing.

But it was worth it. The first stop on the way was the Incan Ruins of Pilka Kaina, a two level stone complex which you can enter.

Afterwards the path cut across the island in a more or less same level. So we utilised the time for some photo-sessions! The view of the lake from here was stunning!

We were able to make time and soon the village came in sight.

When we saw the jetty, our boatman was already waiting there, waving vigorously at us asking to come down fast! Looked like he wanted to go back home fast – in factwe reached back in lesser time than before We observed the sunset on lake Titicaca from the jetty and soon the bus arrived to pick us up for our onward journey to La Paz, capital of Bolivia.

After 3~4 hours, we reached La Paz. The bus dropped us in front of the hotel where we were staying for the night.

The Floating Islands of Uros are actually man-made islands, constructed by Uru people who inhabit them. The local lady who lived on the Island demonstrated to us how these Islands are ‘made’ using Totora reeds which grow in Lake Titicaca.

The reeds have a very thick root which also happens to float when cut out. They are harvested and then anchored to the bottom of the lake with ropes.

Walking on the Island feels like walking on a mat, with a slight sinking feeling. When we visited in the morning there was ice crystals in the straw from overnight. We could feel the coldness through our shoes!

They also cultivate reeds and use them to make houses, boats, souvenirs, mats etc.

Reed boats. For an extra fee you can take a ride on them.

Most of the descendants of the original Uros people have moved to shore. Now only a handful families remain, primarily to preserve the culture and make a living out of tourists that come here.

With that we bid good bye to the Uru people and Puno and continued towards the border of Peru and Bolivia.

]]> http://unboundexplorers.com/2016/05/15/puno-uros-islands/feed/ 0 http://unboundexplorers.com/2016/05/14/the-andean-explorer/ http://unboundexplorers.com/2016/05/14/the-andean-explorer/#respond Sat, 14 May 2016 19:37:48 +0000 http://unboundexplorers.com/?p=115 After Machu Picchu, this was one of the major highlights of our trip – The Andean Explorer – First Class train that operates between Cuzco and Puno. Rated amongst the Top 25 Train Journeys in the world, the Andean Explorer takes you from Ancient capital of Cuzco at 11500ft to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca at 12500ft. During the 10 hour journey you are pampered with gourmet meals, live performances and stunning views of the beautiful Andes mountains!

The reservations have to be made well in advance via the Peru Rail website – same company that operates trains to Machu Picchu. You can take the train either from Cusco to Puno or vice versa. It is not cheap! The ride from Cusco to Puno will set you off by $300+ per person, but trust me it is worth it!

The Experience

Upon reaching the Cusco station (Wanchaq), our bags were collected by porters and we were escorted to a VIP lounge where we were ‘checked-in’. While the train was being prepared for departure, we were offered refreshments in this area.

After few minutes, a service staff approached us and personally escorted to our seats in the coach. We were blown away by the luxurious wood interiors and spacious seats. It was the first time we were traveling in a First class tourist rain. The train had 3 Passenger compartments, a Bar car, an Observatory car, a pantry car and a storage car.

Passenger Car

Once all the passengers boarded, the guard gave the signal and the train slowly pulled out of the station. In a short time we exited the city limits of Cusco and started our winding journey through the Andes.

The observation deck was the most busy space. This is the most unique part of the train. It is like the Guard cabin of freight trains in India. You get unobstructed view of both sides of the track. The most interesting time is when the train goes through a curve. We tried to capture the same in different landscapes!

Another interesting photo opportunity is the view from the back of the train, again as it passes through different landscapes.

Soon we were asked for our preference for lunch. Looking at the menu, the names looked straight out of a Master Chef show. Thankfully, it was a set menu and we just had to choose between two options for each course except dessert. I ordered meat dishes (Fish & Beef), while Swati opted for vegetarian dishes. They were served soon with excellent presentation, making us wonder how they manage to do on a moving train! They were as tasty as they looked!

Soon after lunch, the train pulled into La Raya station – the highest point on the route – and the only stop where we can get out. The station is nothing much but a platform, with a souvenir market and Church right next to it. When all the passengers got busy shopping, we got the whole train for ourselves! Being a fan of trains since childhood, I couldn’t resist going around taking a few shots of the train. Since it was stationary, it was a great opportunity to get some HDR images!

The train moved on, continuing through barren valleys after this. Around 4pm, the next activity was ready. Announcement was made that soon live performance will begin in the Bar/Observatory car! Since our coach was right next to it, we went and got ourselves a seat right away. But as the passengers came in, we realised most of them were Senior Citizens and we gladly gave our seats to few elderly. Soon the artists came, quickly set up the instruments and started their performance, playing traditional music.

After a while, a young lady came dressed in traditional clothes and started a dance performance in between the crowd.

After watching a round of performance we returned to our seats and relaxed for a while. The slowly came out of the rural areas and entered the outskirts of town Juliaca. Now, the route between Cusco and Puno does not have any other passenger trains operating. It is just the two Andean Explorers that pass through here, and an occasional freight trains. So as far as the local population is concerned, the tracks are too a valuable real-estate. If you ask me why, see below –

As soon as the train passed, pedestrians, shoppers and vendors returned to carry on with life as usual! After passing through multiple such markets and streets, we entered Juliaca station.

Here the train made a technical stop and moved on. Light faded quickly afterwards as the sun set. This meant all the lights on the train has to be turned on! It was a challenge to take photos in low light on a moving train, but some how managed to get a basic shots to give you a feel how the train looks at night!

We arrived in Puno on time. By the time we were led out of the train, our luggage was arranged outside according to carriages, making it easy for identification.  We had 3 big bags with us and were struggling to find a cab, when the Service Manger approached us and offered us a city cab at the local standard rates.

The whole end-to-end service was top notch and this trip exceeded all our expectations. It was the most memorable train journey so far!

After returning to Ollantaytambo after our Machu Picchu trip, we transferred back to Cusco the same day. Next day we decided to join a City Tour to see Cusco that covered the major attractions.

Cusco Cathedral : The most distinguishable building in the Plaza de Armas or centre of the city, Cusco Cathedral was built in 1654 over an existing Inca temple – Kiswarkancha. It also had the objective of eradicating the Inca pagan religion and establishing Christianity amongst the natives. This building has many beautiful and important relics inside. Unfortunately, no photographs are permitted inside, so once the tour was over we took some pictures from the outside at night.

Church & Convent of Santo Domingo and Korikancha: Korikancha was the main temple of Incas dedicated to the Sun God Inti. The temple was constructed of perfectly carved huge stone blocks interlocked with each other. It is said that once it was completely covered with gold sheets with gold statues filling the spaces. All the gold was taken and molten down by Incas themselves to fund the ransom demanded by Pizarro to release the last Inca King Atahualpa. Pizarro abducted the King and demanded a room be filled with gold to secure his release. Poor Incas did do, but ultimately the King was killed, ending the Inca Empire as the world knew it.

Sacsayhuamán – Located in the hills above Cusco is the ruins of a fortified complex known as Sacsayhuaman. Predating the Incas by a couple of hundred years, this monument is famous for its construction. Huge boulders are used with no mortar. The construction was so robust that when earthquakes shattered colonial buildings in Cusco, this remained intact! This was also used by Inca rebels to fight the Spanish invasion without success. The mighty boulders of this construction later found its way to the Cathedrals, Convents and other colonial buildings in Cusco.

Puka Pukara – Meaning Red Fort, this is a minor fort located near Sacsayhuaman.

Qenko : Qenko was the last site we visited. It was a holy place for the Incas. This was primarily used for sacrifices.

Once the tour was over we continued our walk around the Historic quarter, taking few photos and doing some souvenir shopping.

Twelve Angle Stone : If you see unusual crowd in a street near the central square, most likely this is the reason. There is a stone in the Inca wall which has 12 angles, puzzling people how it was fitted so perfectly!

Pachacuti Statue and Fountain – Pachakuti is considered one of the most important Inca rulers. He is also the person who is believed to have constructed Machu Picchu. His statue and fountain can be found in central square.

Souvenir Shops – The narrow streets have many souvenir shops. We picked up these cute alpaca dolls from one. No need to mention that you need to bargain

We stayed in a cozy B&B called Amaru Hostal II very close to the historic centre of the city.

Recently elected as one of the New Seven Wonders of the world, Machu Picchu (MP) is visited by over a Million tourists every year. Although visiting Machu Picchu is straightforward, it requires some planning in advance. In this post i’ll share a bit about our preparation and actual experience of visiting this wonder.

When to visit ?

To get the postcard worthy photographs and best visit experience, the best time is between May to October. The busiest is during July and August that coincides with the Summer vacations. This is also the Winter season in South America, but the Summer of November to March is the rainy season in the mountains, making it very difficult to visit. We visited during the shoulder season of May, when crowds are just building up and the weather is decent.

How to reach ?

The nearest major city and that has a well connected airport is Cusco in Peru. From here there are couple of options. First is a hiking trail, famously called “The Inca Trail”, you will trek across the mountains and reach Machu Picchu. Depending on the route, duration varies from 3 to 5 days. Unless you are a Trekking/Hiking enthusiast, have a lot of time in Peru and want to visit MP like the Incas did it, I wouldn’t recommend this way. It is expensive and requires some of preparation to battle it out in high altitude. The slots are also limited which has to be booked much in advance. But it does have it’s own perks! The views en route are parallel to none!

The second and more popular or conventional route is to take the Train to Aguas Calientes – the base town – and bus to the summit. We opted for this option and will cover the same in detail. Two companies operate in this route – Inca Rail and Peru Rail. The trains pass through towns of Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, so it is possible to board here as well.

What to Visit?

Machu Picchu of course! But there are 3 areas to visit here – the main archaeological site of Machu Picchu,  summit of the mountain Machu Picchu (which has the ruins) and the summit of mountain Huayna Picchu (the summit overlooking the site). Visiting the site would require at least 4~5 hours as we realised. First 2 hours was a guided tour, then some exploration on our own. This can be combined with visit to either of the two mountains. But it will cost you slightly more and demand more time and effort. Also the tickets are also extremely limited (200/Day). Among the two side attraction, Huayna Picchu is more popular offering stairways with deep drops and birds eye view of MP. Unfortunately, we skipped them due to lack of time.

Where to Stay ?

Most people stay in Cusco, take the morning train, visit the ruins and return post lunch. If you follow this itinerary, you are bound to visit when the crowd is maximum! We suggest you base yourselves either at Aguas Calientes or Ollantaytambo. Our pick – Ollantaytambo. Not only is this town cheaper and prettier, there is much stuff to see here as well (Please read our previous post). Aguas Calientes is an over priced and over crowded tourist town.

Planning your visit

Once you have decided how to go about your visit, you should lock down the date. This is critical as both train tickets to Aguas Calientes and entrance tickets to Machu Picchu are limited in number and will sell out  in advance. The Train tickets can be booked via Peru Rail or Inca Rail. We opted for Peru Rail. Peru Rail has 3 classes of trains shuttling between the various stations in the valley and Aguas Calientes – Expedition, Vistadome and Hiram Birmingham. Expedition is the cheapest, while Hiram Birmingham is end to end First Class service. We took Expedition to manage the overall budget. Once train tickets are booked, reserve the MP tickets at the Official Site.

Our Experience

We stayed in Ollantaytambo and dedicated one full day for MP visit. We took the first train to Aguas Calientes at 6.30am. The station is just walking distance from the town, but there are small tuk-tuks that can take you there for a small fare. Our’s was the Expedition train and even in this budget option the seats were comfortable and windows on the roof offering outside views.

We reached Aguas Calientes in an hour or so. The town was crowded, touristy and over priced. As you can see below, not a great place to stay.

100m from the exit, we found a queue toward the counter for purchasing Bus tickets to the top. We strongly recommend buying the return bus tickets – $24 per person. It took us 30 mins of waiting to get tickets. We payed in Cash as US Dollars. Cards were not accepted.  Then we moved towards the queue to board the buses. In next 20 minutes or so, we got the seats. While standing in line, we also met our guide who offered us 2.5 hours of tour at 110 Sols for both of us. (Negotiated down!)

Once we reached the top, the guide took care of us for the next 2.5 hours. He took us around the major sections of the site, explaining the history on the way. He followed a different route than usual, avoiding crowds en route.

About Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu was the only Incan settlement undiscovered and unconquered by the Spanish. When the Spanish reached Cusco, the Incas hid the trail to Machu Picchu. Believed to be constructed in the 15^th century, at the height of the Inca Empire, this was a major settlement. The site has Royal residences,  Common houses, Temples and Agricultural areas.  Highlights from our visit in the gallery below –

Once you have completed your visit, you can go back to Aguas Calientes via two ways – Bus or Walk. We decided to save $24 and also enjoy the scenery and opted for a walk back. Our assumption was that it won’t take more than an hour and it would be a nice walk. But be warned! It was a foolish decision. The walk was longer than we thought, not that scenic and tiring. Please take the bus back! By the time we reached the town we were dehydrated and hungry. We ate in the first restaurant we saw (La Roca Sagrada). That was the best Pizza we had in South America!!! We barely reached in time for the train back at 2.30pm.

Tips

1. Previous night ask at the Reception for a Breakfast box. Although breakfast is served in the train, it may not be sufficient for a full day’s sight seeing
2. Carry and drink plenty of water. Even at this altitude going up and down a flight of stairs tires you easily
3. Ensure the Guide you hire is registered and has a badge/ID card. Rates are negotiable. We paid 110 Soles/2.5 hours. He spoke good English and was very knowledgeable
4. There is a booth where you can stamp your Passport with Machu Picchu seal. We missed it. Don’t forget!
5. Restrooms require change (1 Sol). Use before entering the monument
6. Take the Bus down. Don’t walk down unless you have plenty of time in your hand.

We stayed in Casa del Abuelo, a small B&B located on the street next to the ruins. Our room opened to the street and beautiful view of the moutains.

We started the morning with tour of the Ruins of Ollantaytambo. This was the last stronghold of the Incas during the Spanish invasion. The complex served as a Military Fort while offering spaces for Religion and Agriculture.

From the top of the ruins, you get to see the whole valley, with Ollantaytambo town at bottom.

There were clear sections for farming, religion, administration and military. All these had thatched roofs once, all gone now.  Some more pictures in the Gallery below –

It is here we first noted the beauty of Inca Architecture. The huge stones are locked against each other as they have been welded together. They even withstood earthquakes! All this was done on hard stone without help of modern technology!

On our way down we came across some Quinoa plants. These were one form of staple food for the Incas. They were once harvested in these grounds. Extra grains were stored in granaries, like the one you see in the distance in the mountain.
 

After exiting the ruins, we walked around the old town a bit. The streets and houses have not changed at all. Many people still stay in the ancient stone houses that Incas built, just the roofs have changed.

Then we walked into the town square. The views from every corner of this town are just stunning!

That’s all Ollantaytambo has to offer. There are many shops where you can bargain and get some souvenirs. It is advised you buy them here, as the prices are cheaper than in touristy Cusco.

Flying into Cusco

Cusco is situated at an altitude of 3400m or 11200ft (similar to Ladakh in J&K, India). As it is a major destination, it is well connected via air, road and rail. Fastest way to reach is to fly.

However, flying from city like Lima which is at sea level is bound to cause Altitude sickness. So we decided to visit Cusco later and headed straight to Ollantaytambo, a small town in the heart of the Sacred Valley. Since it is located at a much lower (<2800m) it would be easier to acclimatise while having reduced effects of altitude. We had carried medicines for altitude sickness, but fortunately didn’t face any issue.

We arranged our transfers through a reputed company called Taxidatum. The driver was waiting for us at the airport with a sign board. This was not a straight transfer to Ollantaytambo, but combined with 3 stops on the way – Chinchero, Maras and Moray. As we left Cusco town, the road started to descend through scenic valleys. Our first stop on the way was picture perfect!

Chinchero Village

After a while we entered the village of Chinchero – a small Andean village in the Sacred Valley which also is a main market place for local products. Both sides of the narrow cobblestone paths are filled with souvenir shops selling Alpaca wool products.

The village is situated on a hill. Soon we realised that climbing here is no easy task! The air is thin and you start panting very fast. However the climb was short this time and the view was worth it. Imagine waking up to a view like this from your home every day!

Salt mines of Maras

Next stop was the Salt Mines or Salineras at Maras. Usual visitors have to alight at the entrance and walk down the long route. But we were short on time. Knowing that, our driver who was a local talked with the officials and took us in car itself till the inside!

This is how the Incas produced salt. Being so far away from the sea, they found that the spring water coming out from this mountain had high levels of salt. So they channeled this water into multiple ponds, made on the hill side. The water evaporated under the sun and salt was ready for the taking!

 Ruins of Moray

The last stop before reaching Ollantaytambo was Ruins of Moray. We reached just in time before the site closed for the day!

This is a very special site as it demonstrates the technology the Incas possessed in medieval times. The site consists of concentric steps that reduce in diameter as you go deeper. As you go each level down, the temperature decreases! This enabled them to regulate temperatures and grow crops more productively!

As we left Moray the light was too good to resist taking few pictures. The Andean foothills are so pretty!

We reached Ollantaytambo by dusk and checked in to the hotel. More about it in next post!

So, the only way to view and appreciate these ancient artforms is to fly over them! Just outside the town of Nazca lies the Airport, where many tour agencies offer aerial tour of the lines. A decade ago, they were infamous for safety standards, as the planes were old and pilots inexperienced, leading to many accidents and fatalities. Recently the government intervened and now it is strictly regulated, making it more reliable and safe to enjoy this wonder.

We opted for Aero Nasca, which was one of the more reliable and trusted Tour Operator here. Actually, the tour includes a pick up from the Hotel, but as it was Mother’s Day (Important holiday in Peru), the team forgot about us. So after waiting for a while at the hotel, we hailed a cab and went to the airport, where upon presenting ourselves the agents became apologetic. They promised us to lengthen our flight and include some additional sights to compensate!

After making payment, you are “Checked-in”. This involves being weighed and allocating seat accordingly.

The planes are small 6 seater Cessnas. Post the security check, we wait for the remaining passengers. It is best to take the flights in the morning, when the air is clear, so we were going in the second flight in the morning!

Once 6 passengers are ready, we are escorted to our Plane by the Pilot and First Officer. First Officer also serves as the Guide. Once strapped in as per allocated seats (basis weights), we wore headphones, that cancelled the noise and opened channel to listen to our guide. We were also given a sheet which indicated the designs.

It was our first ride on a 6 seater airplane. Take off was quick and smooth and we soon flew over the city and entered the desert!

The instructions were simple. When a Geoglyph is about to appear, the guide will tell us when it will come (next 30 seconds), where it will come (left side or right side), and how to easily identify it (say focus on the shadow of the plane on ground). And when it does come, the pilot banks the plane sharply to that side so people can take a look and take pictures. Then he goes ahead and makes a turn so that people on the other side can see. Now this is not easy on the stomach!

The next 30 minutes was the most acrobatic flight we had ever experienced, but it also presented some dramatic views!

This regions is so arid that for over a millenia these forms have survived. There is hardly any wind or rain to disturb them.

We also saw umpteen lines and trapezoids, smaller figures like dog and parrot as well. To this day there is no definite answer why the Ancient Nazca people created these lines. With no technology to view this from the air, how did they create so accurate figures ?  Why do some resemble landing strips found in current airports? So many unanswered questions!

The Nazca people were not just experts at creating Geoglyphs in the desert! They were smart engineers too! The following wells is an example of how they managed to get water supply in such an arid place!

They were also experts in Mummification. There is a mummy kept in museum in town. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit the same.

Had the flight been any longer, we too would have puked on board. Fortunately, they brought us down safely! Afterwards, the team dropped us back at our B&B!

Tips for Photographing the Nazca Lines

Before I left in the morning to board the flight, I was totally confused on what equipment to take with me. The flight is extremely short and challenging. So there is no possibility of changing lenses and all in flight. So basis my research and experience, here are some tips.

1. Zoom Lens works best : Almost all the pictures above were taken with help of 18-50mm Kit lens. This is a versatile option as it provides Zoom and Wide view. If you have a 18-135mm, that would be even better. The figures are huge but from up in the air, they look small. Sometimes you fly up close, and they appear larger. So it is best to have a lens with variable focal length
2. Carry a Point and Shoot Back-up : The close up of the humming bird was taken with a Point and Shoot Nikkon camera by Swati. Keep a back up option if the DSLR settings are not working.
3. Lines are hard to spot in Unprocessed images : You might see the image all brown or grey in your LCD Screen after clicking a picture. This is normal. You have to enhance the contrast and adjust brightness to see the lines. All images above are enhanced.
4. Watch out for glare : There would be the glass window of the plane between you and the ground. Just ensure that the camera angle is such that the glare is reduced – or use a Polaroid Filter.

The Hotel had just rooms and no service. So when our stomachs started making noises, we headed out to the town. It is a very small town and mainly centred around tourism, so was pretty safe. The destination was Misk’i, a small restaurant with good reviews on Tripadvisor.

We ordered our usual – Chicken Pizza – and to go with it a Pisco Sour. Pisco is a local alcoholic cocktail. As the name suggests, it is sour, but in a nice way.

Next day, we had 2 tours planned back to back. First was a boat trip to Ballestas Island. Paracas is often called poor man’s Galapagos, these islands are the reason why. Located 30 mins off the shore of Paracas, these islands have a huge population of birds and few marine mammals, resembling Galapagos island wildlife. The rocky islands are covered in guano or bird droppings. There is so much of bird shit, that every 10 years, it is mined on a commercial scale!

But, the first stop on the ride was a unique Geoglyph on the sands – Candalebra. No one knows who created this, when or why.  Speculation is it was a guiding beacon for mariners in the past.

As soon as the islands come in sight, so does the deafening sound of the birds. We had never seen so many birds flocked together is such a small location!

There were Peruvian Pelicans, Peruvian Boobies, Humboldt Penguins and Sea Lions.

The whole tour lasted exactly 2 hours and we were back to the jetty by 10am. Although late, we had a quick breakfast and went back to the Tour operator for our next tour – Paracas Reserve.

TIP : Try and sit on the front of the boat. You get a better view, less shaky and won’t get drenched.

This region of Peru, although in the Tropical region, does not have a Tropical climate. It is because of the cold Humboldt current, whereby the air is cooled and cannot produce precipitation or rain leading to an arid climate and desert landscape.  Paracas Reserve falls in this region is home to rich Marine life and unique land formations.

As part of the Paracas Tour, you visit the Museum first, where you get to know more about the regions geological and zoological history. Just a short walk behind the museum you get to see Flamingos feeding in the distance.

After that you get to see different landscapes in the park, like the Playa Roja or Red Beach!

You wind up the tour with a visit to a beach-side restaurant. It is optional to eat here, but you would be definitely tempted to do so. Try the Ceviche, local seafood delicacy!

After the Tour we came back to our Hotel, checked out and was in time for our Bus ride to the next destination – Nasca!

Both of us being committed to full time jobs, 3 weeks was the maximum break we could manage, that too courtesy of our supercool bosses! We had to be super choosy what we should include and what we should leave out. After few months of intense research and planning, we finally nailed down the itinerary, and it started here in Lima!

Lima is the capital and largest city in Peru. It is one of the well connected cities in the continent, with direct flight connections to Europe. We flew to Lima from Mumbai via Amsterdam on KLM Royal Dutch. Although slightly expensive, this saved many hours of travel time a transit of United States/Schengen Zone and an extra connection. We left Mumbai on May 6 morning and reached the same day evening, as we gained 12 hours crossing time zones from east to west!

We had planned just a half day to see Lima, that too as part of a organised tour. If you have time, the city can be explored in 2-3 days, visiting different monuments, parks, museums, neighbourhoods etc, trying local food, experiencing local culture etc. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the luxury of time, so decided to do the capsule form of sightseeing.

Basis reviews on Trip Advisor, we opted for “Kings & Queens Tour of Lima” offered by Haku Tours. We started our tour with a visit to a classic colonial house in Lima. Lima has a long colonial history and was founded by Spanish Conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535! He defeated the last Incan Emperor Atahualpa and ended the dominance of Incas in South America. The site of Lima was carefully chosen, that it was suitable to supporting settlements, with access to water, fertile lands and ocean. So in the historic centre of Lima, you’ll see a lot of European influence, primarily Spanish. This particular house has been converted to a Hotel – Hotel España.

Situated just next to this building was an important landmark of Lima – Monastery of San Francesco.

More than 300 years old, this building complex is noted for it’s architecture and paintings. The complex consists of the chapel, convent and catacombs.

The convents and catacombs were off-limits to cameras. The most interesting fact was the style of the paintings. All the paintings look European to the untrained eye. But as our guide pointed out, these were drawn by local Inca converts. They were trained by Spanish priests and artists. But when they started painting, lot of local influence crept in. Like the recreation of The Last Supper, where the main dish Jesus and the Disciples are eating, is Guinea Pig ! Talk about local cuisine! Beneath the beautiful church is an eerie spot – the catacombs. Long maze of narrow passages which used to be old graves. Most of them still have bones and remains!

This is a very touristy area, and there are many local vendors selling souvenirs.

The next stop was the main attraction – Historic Centre of Lima – a UNESCO World Heritage site. This area houses the oldest and most beautiful buildings in Lima. The guide gave us some time to walk around, explore the area and take photos.

Afterwards, we moved on, walking through narrow lanes and streets, taking in more of colonial Lima.

After crossing the last street, we left the pedestrian street and boarded our car. That was Lima in a short glimpse. If you are on a dedicated visit to Peru or have an unconstrained/open itinerary, Lima is worth 3 days at least. You can explore the different neighbourhoods, mix with the people, taste the cuisine etc. Unfortunately, for us it was time to catch the bus to Paracas, our next destination!