The Altiplano region is a high plateau in the Andes mountain range, semi-arid to arid, stretching across Peru, Bolivia and Chile. Our first stop for the day was unplanned as the other 4×4 suffered a puncture.

We moved on without much delay and stopped at a beautiful valley where Llamas were grazing.

After close encounter with the Llamas, we moved on. Around lunch time, we arrived at this vast plain with thousands of boulders surrounded by mountains. All the mountains were ancient extinct volcanoes, and the boulders cooled down mega-eruption. After solidification, they were sculpted to strange shapes by wind and sand.

After the tasty picnic lunch in the middle of the boulder field, we started our ascent. The vegetation disappeared, air became colder, drier and thinner! Soon we came across the first Altiplano lake – a mineral rich salt lake inhabited by flock of flamingoes. We couldn’t believe the birds could survive in this harsh climate!

There major species of Flamingos found here are Andean Flamingos and James’s Flamingos. They get their distinct pink colour from eating the algae in the lake.

We made our next stop at Árbol de Piedra or stone tree. An isolated stone formation in the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve. Again, this rock formation is a result of constant erosion over the centuries by strong winds that also carries sand particles.

The last stop was the most dramatic for the day – Laguna Colorada or the Red Lagoon! As the name suggests, the lake here is Red in colour, with white borax islands. The red colour is due to red pigments and algae that feed on them.

The last stop for the day was an active geothermal field at 4900m! The temperature by this time had dropped to 5ºC. The area had distinct sulphur smell with fumes rising steadily into the air.

After this we continued our journey to the small lodge in the middle of nowhere! While the last night’s place had steady electricity and running water throughout the night, this one had it only till 10.30pm. We had read online that it is best to freshen up at night when water is running, as the toilets would be unbearable next morning – and it was true! There was a ‘hot spring’ near by, to which our fellow travellers eagerly rushed to for a dip. By hot they meant 15ºC! Our priority was to just survive the night! Fortunately, the thick blankets provided helped us scrape through the night as the mercury hit sub-zero!

The last day of the tour consisted of just two stops. First was Desierto de Dalí or Salvador Dalí Desert. It is a barren landscape with rock formations that resemble Dalí’s art.

The final stop was yet another beautiful lagoon – Laguna Verde or Green Lagoon. A stunning green salt lake, at the foot of the extinct Volcano Licancabur.

On the other side of Licancabur Volcano above lay Chile. As we had opted for drop at San Pedro de Atacama, we said bye to our fellow travellers and alighted at the Bolivian border post. The last 3 days gave us an adventure of a lifetime, and we highly recommend you to take this tour if ever in Bolivia/Chile! But this trips requires some preparation – read this article for our tips.

The Salt Flats begin on the outskirts of the small town of Uyuni in Bolivia. The major highlights can be covered in a one day tour. But there are combo packages which take you deeper and higher into the Altiplano region. We opted for the 3 Day/2 Night Tour and went ahead with Red Planet Expedition – one of the most highly recommended tour operators. In this post I’ll try to share the first day’s experience – which is more about exploring the Salt Flats.

Getting to Uyuni

To explore the Salt Flats, first you have to reach Uyuni. To get there, you need to either take a morning flight from La Paz or an overnight bus. We took the bus (Todo Turismo).  Either way, you reach the town in the morning, just in time to freshen up and start the tour on the same day – around 10.30am. The town is very small, but has establishment that cater to basic needs – Supermarket, Restaurants, Hostels, Money Exchange etc. We arrived at 7am, took a cab for few Bolivars to the office of our Tour Operator – Red Planet Expedition. We freshened up, made the payment for the tour, had breakfast and bought essential supplies from the town (Like Drinking Water, Snacks etc). By that time, the 4×4 was prepped and ready to go!

First stop – Train Cemetery

This region is very rich in minerals and is an important source of revenue for Bolivia. Railway lines were laid in the past to transport these minerals across the border to Chile to ship it out. Train Locomotives were brought from Britain. But the routes didn’t operate long and were abandoned eventually. All the locomotives were dumped in what is now popularly termed as Train Cemetery or Graveyard. This is the starting point for all Salt Flat tours.

Onwards to the Salt Factory

Last stop before venturing out into the Salt flats was a local market for lunch, refreshments and some souvenir shopping. Here they showed us how Salt is mined locally- yes, for consumption – in small scale. Salt is made into bricks in the field, transported to the factory, powdered and purified.

Finally…We reach the Salt Flats!

Yes! It begins here. As our 4×4 crossed the market, the landscape began to change. From brown the colour kept fading till it became pure white! We have entered Salar de Uyuni!

Perspective Photographs

If you Google Salar de Uyuni, there are high chances that you will come across many strange photographs that appear unreal. Since the land is absolutely flat & white, and horizon is empty due to vastness, here you can take amazing trick photographs!

Rahul researched in advance, learned the science behind it, even had some props ready. But it is not that easy. It is difficult to take these photos with a DSLR, Mobile Camera works best. And to get the shot right, you need some coaching (from the very able driver/guide) and some practice! Trust him with your Mobile phone and he will create magic!!!

Fish Island or Isla Incahuasi

After having had fun with Perspective photography, we continued the drive through the salt flats to reach Isla Incahuasi, otherwise popularly known as Fish Island! When the prehistoric lake existed this was an Island, now a hill. In an hours time you can climb to the summit for stunning panoramic views! The Island has Giant cacti that can reach up to a height of 10m! Their wood can be used to make furniture!

If you look closely at the rocks/soil on the island, you’ll observe they are of coral origins. Yes, this was a coral island long long time ago, now they are fossilised!

Sunset

Sunset on the salt flats is a surreal experience. From bright white the landscape fades away as the sun disappears below the horizon.

If you have opted for the Day Tours, usually you head back to Uyuni. But we had 2 more days of exploring the Altiplano region beyond, so we continued to our night camp.

Staying in a Salt Hotel

I have heard of ice hotels in Scandinavia, but a salt hotel ? Yes, we spent the night in a hotel made of salt bricks! The ground was rock salt, while bed and walls were made of salt bricks. Since we were a couple, we got a whole room with attached bathroom for ourselves. Everything was gas powered here. I wanted to take a bath and there was not hot water (although they mentioned it would be available). Then Rahul went and said something in Spanish and finally after some time got Hot water. But it was a bad decision to take a bath! As soon as I got out I started freezing. However, it didn’t last long and we had a good night sleep!

Tiwanaku is 2 hours outside of La Paz and best visited as a day trip from there with a knowledgable guide. The visit starts in the Museum (where no photos are allowed) and continues on to the Archaeological site.

Next is the Kalasasaya Mound, surrounded by huge stone wall on all sides.

On top of the mound are two notable structures. First, and the most famous – The Sun Gate. It is made from single stone, with intricate carvings. In an attempt to move it last century, it broke in half. But still, a very impressive structure. It is said that this gateway was once adorned with gold. The holes had golden statues inlaid.

The most interesting section is the top.  A closer look reveals that there are three rows, one for each world in Tiwanaku Mythology – Condor for Heavens or Sky, Puma for Earth and Snake for underworld. At the centre is the Creator diety – Viracocha, isolated from all three worlds by a barrier. Those who believe in Ancient Aliens believe that Viracocha was one of them.

Near the Sun gate is the second interesting structure – a 7 foot tall idol. Notice the fingers – something unusual about them right ?

Outside the mound you find a strange subterranean or sunk temple. Symbolic of the underworld, this sunken pit is surrounded by stone walls with hundreds of faces jutting out.

Each face is unique. The design evolved over the centuries. Some of them doesn’t look human!

Around this area there are more ancient sites, but spark the interest of Archaeologists rather than tourists as they are either not excavated or unrestored.

Post our visit we enjoyed lunch at a nearby restaurant and returned to La Paz.

Enjoy the City View from Mirador Killi Killi

This is a small Park outside the city, on top of a hill with Free Entrance and a vantage point to observe the city skyline.

La Paz – Capital of Bolivia, View from Mirador Killi Killi

Visit the Witches’ Market

This is an eerie place. A dilapidated street, with stores selling all sorts of voodoo stuff with witch doctors on streets. People visit them seeking solutions to common problems in life – birth of a baby, getting a good alliance, securing a job, procuring wealth etc. The witch doctors listen to their requests, ask them to buy a list of offerings, which are readily available in the stores. Then they do a ritual and burn the offerings on the road. The offerings could be as simple as fruits, books, wood and as scary as dried baby llamas! More expensive and exquisite the offering, more effective the ritual! Also, the service list also includes bringing harm and ill to your enemies!

Colonial buildings at Calle Jean

Calle Jean is a small street in La Paz which has few well preserved colonial buildings. Most of them are now either Art shops or Museums.

Take the Cable Car ‘Teleferico”

La Paz is on a slightly lower altitude than the immediate neighbouring city of El Alto. Unlike western countries, where a higher area is prime property, here the property in lower areas are more valued. This is because the higher grounds doesn’t still get running water or electricity all year round. So most of the working population stay in El Alto and come down to La Paz to work. The biggest problem was time needed for commute. Going up and down through winding roads in a bus was not practical. So the government constructed the first cable car public transit. Usually you see cable cars at tourist spots. Here it is part of daily life. A ride from El Alto to La Paz is a great experience !

Umpteen varieties of Potato in Robert Rodriguez Food Market

The Food market in La Paz has striking resemblance to the ones you find in India. Vendors with produce in the open, mostly stacked in sacks. But the surprise here is the number of different types of Potatoes you can find. They come in all sorts of sizes and shapes!

Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit areas in historic central square as there was a protest going on. Police had blocked all traffic and pedestrian access to the area. It was not safe as well.

Crossing Peru-Bolivia International border by land

Our first stop was border town of Yunguyo. Here we alighted from the bus and carried our belongings to the Peruvian Immigration office (See Control de Migratario office below). Unfortunately there was no power and we had to wait for a while before we could finish our exit formalities. So we exchanged our Peruvian Soles and US Dollars for few Bolivars at the Exchange nearby. Once we got the seal on our Passport, we grabbed our luggage and walked towards the border (the Arch you can see in the distance). Pushing and Pulling heavy luggage at this altitude is no easy task mind you! Both of us were panting vigorously by the time we reached the gate.

Once we crossed the arch, we were received by the Bolivia Hop guide and escorted to the Bolivian Immigration counter. It is possible to get a Visa on Arrival for Indian citizens here. However we had managed to get a free Tourist visa from the consulate back home, so the process was same as in any other airport – Fill the Entry form, submit the same with Passport and get the stamp.

Once everyone in the group got their Passports stamped, we boarded the bus on Bolivian side. Now this bus was a different one than the one in Peru side, as vehicles cannot cross here. Slightly lesser in terms of comfort. In an hour or so we reached Copacabana, a small town on the shores of Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side. We had arranged a Tour to Isla del Sol, one of the Islands on Lake Titicaca. First we had our lunch at a restaurant overlooking the lake and then set off to Isla del Sol.

Visit to Isla del Sol

We boarded the boat at 2pm for Isla del Sol. We cruised through at a steady pace and reached the island in 30-40 minutes.

We got down at this small jetty on the southern side of the island.

The water was very clear near the shore, and dark blue from a distance. Although it looks tempting for a swim, water here was cold <10°C!

The boatman gave us 1 hr on the Island. We had to walk across the whole island, through the pathway to Yumani village on the northern side where he planned to pick us up at 4pm, for the journey back. At slowest pace he said we wont require more than 45 mins, including time for photo stops. But what we didn’t factor is that the lake is at an altitude of 3800m and the island is at a higher level than the same which meant some climbing.

But it was worth it. The first stop on the way was the Incan Ruins of Pilka Kaina, a two level stone complex which you can enter.

Afterwards the path cut across the island in a more or less same level. So we utilised the time for some photo-sessions! The view of the lake from here was stunning!

We were able to make time and soon the village came in sight.

When we saw the jetty, our boatman was already waiting there, waving vigorously at us asking to come down fast! Looked like he wanted to go back home fast – in factwe reached back in lesser time than before We observed the sunset on lake Titicaca from the jetty and soon the bus arrived to pick us up for our onward journey to La Paz, capital of Bolivia.

After 3~4 hours, we reached La Paz. The bus dropped us in front of the hotel where we were staying for the night.